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Pruden Adjustable Baffle Inlet

Product Description:
The Pruden Adjustable Baffle Inlet from J&D Manufacturing is an advanced air control system designed to draw fresh air from the attic during winter, and directly from the outside during the summer. The exclusive “Flexible Lip” contours to your building, creating a tight seal for both new construction and retrofit applications. Transform the J&D Baffle Inlet into an eaves closure system by placing the optional poly baffle insert over the interior insulation board.

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Key Features:

  • Available in 8” and 12” widths in 8’ lengths
  • PVC clad Styrofoam™ insulated doors won’t warp, sweat, or rust
  • One-piece design with no gluing or assembly required
  • Optional 24-gauge galvanized baffle stiffeners for additional support
  • Optional PVC inserts to protect insulation against birds and ultra-violet rays
  • Inlet is mounted with a low door pivot point to direct air across the ceiling for better mixing
  • Flexible hinge and pre-punched rigid PVC mounting strip for easy installation

Applications:

  • Dairy
  • Swine
Part - Details
Baffle Inlets
PFBAB128 Baffle Inlet, Adjustable 12", 8' Section
PFBAB88 Baffle Inlet, 8" Width, 8' Section
Optional Baffle Inserts
PFBST Baffle Stiffener, 8' Galv
PFINS12A Polyethylene insert, .035" x 11" x 96", white w/ UVI
PFINS8A Polyethylene insert, .035" x 7-3/16" x 96" white w/UVI
End Stops
PFSES12B End Stops, SS for 12" Baffle (Set of 2)
PFSES8B End Stops, SS for 8" Baffle (Set of 2)
PFSESCDBL End Stops, SS for Double Run 8" Baffle (Set of 2)
Part #
PFBAB128
Baffle Inlets
Details
Baffle Inlet, Adjustable 12", 8' Section
Part #
PFBAB88
Baffle Inlets
Details
Baffle Inlet, 8" Width, 8' Section
Part #
PFBST
Optional Baffle Inserts
Details
Baffle Stiffener, 8' Galv
Part #
PFINS12A
Optional Baffle Inserts
Details
Polyethylene insert, .035" x 11" x 96", white w/ UVI
Part #
PFINS8A
Optional Baffle Inserts
Details
Polyethylene insert, .035" x 7-3/16" x 96" white w/UVI
Part #
PFSES12B
End Stops
Details
End Stops, SS for 12" Baffle (Set of 2)
Part #
PFSES8B
End Stops
Details
End Stops, SS for 8" Baffle (Set of 2)
Part #
PFSESCDBL
End Stops
Details
End Stops, SS for Double Run 8" Baffle (Set of 2)

Product Details:

Part # Details
Baffle Inlets
PFBAB128 Baffle Inlet, Adjustable 12", 8' Section
PFBAB88 Baffle Inlet, 8" Width, 8' Section
Optional Baffle Inserts
PFBST Baffle Stiffener, 8' Galv
PFINS12A Polyethylene insert, .035" x 11" x 96", white w/ UVI
PFINS8A Polyethylene insert, .035" x 7-3/16" x 96" white w/UVI
End Stops
PFSES12B End Stops, SS for 12" Baffle (Set of 2)
PFSES8B End Stops, SS for 8" Baffle (Set of 2)
PFSESCDBL End Stops, SS for Double Run 8" Baffle (Set of 2)

Product Details:

Part # Details
Baffle Inlets
PFBAB128 Baffle Inlet, Adjustable 12", 8' Section
PFBAB88 Baffle Inlet, 8" Width, 8' Section
Optional Baffle Inserts
PFBST Baffle Stiffener, 8' Galv
PFINS12A Polyethylene insert, .035" x 11" x 96", white w/ UVI
PFINS8A Polyethylene insert, .035" x 7-3/16" x 96" white w/UVI
End Stops
PFSES12B End Stops, SS for 12" Baffle (Set of 2)
PFSES8B End Stops, SS for 8" Baffle (Set of 2)
PFSESCDBL End Stops, SS for Double Run 8" Baffle (Set of 2)

FAQs:

Inlets are an essential part of your complete ventilation system. They bring fresh air into your barn or building where it is properly mixed and then circulated and exhausted. A well designed and well located inlet system is more important for good ventilation than the fans themselves.
One of the biggest mistakes when designing a ventilation system is not providing a proper inlet. This will depend on many factors and variables. In order to get the most out of your inlet system, please contact our knowledgable Engineering and Sales staff that can assist you in this process.
No. You only need to frame 2 of the 4 sides.
Attic air inlets are used in poultry houses to allow growers to capture warmer attic air for minimum ventilation, which helps reduce heating fuel costs and relative humidity, along with improving litter quality.
The most common issues are installing the inlets in houses that are not tight, not configuring the correct number of inlets, not understanding the limitations of the attic as an incoming air source, and not understanding the management required in inlet systems.
If your motor arm won’t rotate on your motorized shutter kit, please check these three things:

1. Check that the chain is rigged properly. To do this, with the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the “s-hook” in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o’clock position.

2. Check the wiring. For 120 volt wiring, twist the red and brown wires together and connect to the thermostat switch leg. Connect the black and white wires together and connect to the neutral. For 240 volt wiring, twist the black and brown wires together and cap with a wire nut. Then connect the red wire to the thermostat switch leg (L1) and the white wire to Line 2.

3. Check the thermostat. The thermostat set points need to be set below the ambient temperature.
This is actually a misconception. This motor is designed to accommodate shutters ranging in size from 10″ single panel to 60″ double panel without damage. The rigging chain to the outboard hole in the lever arm will generate less torque and provide the maximum travel.
The motor is designed for clockwise rotation only. The extension spring plus the weight of the louver panel is sufficient to pull the arm back to the start position.
The lever arm is not mounted properly. Position the arm on the shaft so that the set screws are facing away from the motor housing. Slide it on all of the way and then back it off about 1/16″. Snug the set screws. Do not over tighten. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the “s-hook” in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o’clock position.
If your lever arm is striking the motor, there is too much slack in your chain. Position the arm on the shaft so that the set screws are facing away from the motor housing. Slide it on all of the way and then back it off about 1/16″. Snug the set screws. Do not over tighten. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the “s-hook” in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o’clock position.
There is too much slack in the chain. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the “s-hook” in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o’clock position.
There are two possible reasons for this.

1. The static pressure is too high. You may require a 2 stage thermostat to allow the shutters to open on stage 1 and the fan(s) to start on stage 2.

2. There is too much slack in the chain. With the shutter closed, rig the chain with minimum slack and insert the “s-hook” in the outboard hole of the lever arm, with the arm in the 11 to 12 o’clock position.